Climbing protection

Camming devices and nuts in climbing

Climbing is a thrilling adventure sport that offers a unique blend of physical and mental excitement. But beyond athletic prowess, quality gear and a thorough understanding of your tools are essential for a climber’s safety and success. Nuts and cams, whether mechanical or passive, are indispensable devices that allow climbers to anchor themselves securely in rock features and hold their position safely when venturing onto vertical terrain. Discover their function, how to use them, and how to choose the right ones to enhance your climbing experience.

Nuts, with ends designed to fit into narrow cracks, are climbing protection devices engineered to provide a secure and reliable hold on rock faces. They come in two main types: mechanical (or active) and passive. Mechanical devices, also known as cams or camming devices, have moving parts that allow them to contract for placement in a crack and then expand to wedge securely inside, creating a camming action. Passive nuts, on the other hand, are solid metal pieces wedged into cracks by the climber’s weight. These are often wire nuts, valued for their versatility and resistance to impact and wear. Nuts and cams are essential tools for any serious climber. Understanding and using them correctly can make the difference between a safe, successful ascent and a potentially dangerous situation. So, invest time in getting familiar with these devices.

The use of nuts and cams largely depends on the type of climbing you do. In traditional climbing, for example, climbers use these devices to create their own anchor points as they ascend. They are placed as frequently as possible whenever a suitable feature appears. This process requires good rock knowledge, gear placement skills, and careful safety assessment. When placing a nut or cam, the climber must consider several factors, including the size and shape of the crack, the type of device, and the forces that may be applied in the event of a fall. After inserting the device into the crack, it’s recommended to give it a firm tug to ensure it’s properly set.

Choosing the ideal protection depends on several variables, including rock type, crack size, and your comfort level and experience with different devices. Among popular options, Black Diamond climbing nuts and cams are renowned for their quality and safety, making them a favorite among experienced climbers. Mechanical devices are often easier to place and remove, but they’re also more expensive. Passive nuts are more affordable and can be more versatile, but they often require more skill for secure placement. Ultimately, most climbers carry a variety of devices to adapt to different situations.

As a reminder, a complete quickdraw for climbing consists of a carabiner, a nut or cam, and a mix of slings and ropes. The nut or cam plays a crucial role in this setup, serving as the link between the climbing rope and the rock.

A selection of lightweight and practical nut tools

A nut tool is a slim, hooked device essential for climbers in traditional climbing (also called ""trad"" or adventure climbing). Its main role is to help remove nuts or removable protection (such as cams or hexentrics) that have been placed in rock cracks to secure the climber’s progress.

Here’s how nut tools work and why they’re important:

In trad climbing, climbers place nuts and cams in cracks to anchor their rope and protect their ascent. However, these devices often get stuck under the weight or pressure applied. A nut tool allows you to free them without damage or risk of jamming them further.

During the descent or when a second climber follows, the nut tool makes it easy to quickly remove protection. This saves time and effort compared to manual removal, which can be difficult and tiring at height.

The climbing nut tool is therefore an essential piece of gear for trad climbers who want to safely retrieve their protection!