History of the Origins of American Climbing Grades
Yosemite Decimal System
The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) was developed in the 1950s by climbers from the Sierra Club in California, particularly in Yosemite National Park. Before the introduction of the YDS, existing grading systems were less uniform and often regional.
The YDS was designed to provide a clear and standardised assessment of the difficulty of climbing routes. It includes several classes:
Class 1 to 3: refers to hiking and trekking on rough terrain.
Class 4: refers to scrambling and easy climbing, often used for sections requiring hand use.
Class 5: refers to technical climbing, requiring the use of ropes for safety. This is where subdivisions begin, for example, 5.0, 5.1, up to 5.15 and beyond.
From the 1960s onwards, alphabetical suffixes (a, b, c, d) were added to further refine the grades within each numerical level, reflecting subtle variations in difficulty.
V-Scale Bouldering Grading System
The V-Scale grading system was developed by John ‘Verm’ Sherman in the late 1980s and early 1990s. It is named after Sherman's nickname, ‘Verm’.
This grading system starts at V0 and increases linearly, with no defined upper limit, based on the perceived difficulty of bouldering problems. Unlike the YDS, it does not subdivide levels with alphabetical suffixes.
The V-Scale quickly became the standard for bouldering grades in the United States, appreciated for its simplicity and adaptability.
This grading system starts at V0 and increases linearly, with no defined upper limit, based on the perceived difficulty of bouldering problems. Unlike the YDS, it does not subdivide levels with alphabetical suffixes.
The V-Scale quickly became the standard for bouldering grades in the United States, appreciated for its simplicity and adaptability.
Climbing Difficulty Grading Table:
| YDS Grade | French Grade | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 5.0 | 2 | |
| 5.1 | 2+ | |
| 5.2 | 1 | Very easy routes, almost like walking on rugged terrain. |
| 5.3 | 2 | Easy routes requiring a bit more balance and effort. |
| 5.4 | 3 | Requires basic climbing techniques. |
| 5.5 | 4a / 4b | Easy routes but requiring good mastery of basic techniques. |
| 5.6 | 4c | Easy to moderately difficult routes, introduction to technical moves. |
| 5.7 | 5a / 5b | Moderately difficult, requiring climbing techniques and strength. |
| 5.8 | 5c | More technical routes requiring precision and strength. |
| 5.9 | 6a | Quite technical routes requiring good mastery of technique and strength. |
| 5.10a | 6a+ | Difficult routes requiring good technique and fitness. |
| 5.10b | 6a+ | Difficult routes with even more technical and strength-demanding moves. |
| 5.10c | 6b | Very difficult routes requiring excellent technique and strength. |
| 5.10d | 6b | Very difficult, requiring excellent physical and technical condition. |
| 5.11a | 6b+ / 6c | Very demanding routes both technically and physically. |
| 5.11b | 6c+ | Even more demanding than 6c, requiring perfect mastery of climbing techniques. |
| 5.11c | 6c+ | Extremely difficult routes requiring very high technical and physical abilities. |
| 5.11d | 7a | Extremely difficult routes, even more demanding than 7a. |
| 5.12a | 7a+ | Extremely difficult routes requiring maximum performance. |
| 5.12b | 7b | Very technical and physically challenging, requiring exceptional fitness. |
| 5.12c | 7b+ | Extremely demanding routes, requiring elite performance. |
| 5.12d | 7c | Extremely difficult routes requiring very high-level climbing abilities. |
| 5.13a | 7c+ | Routes reserved for the elite, requiring exceptional preparation and abilities. |
| 5.13b | 8a | Extremely difficult routes requiring world-class performance. |
| 5.13c | 8a+ | Extremely difficult routes, highly technical and physically challenging. |
| 5.13d | 8b | Even more demanding than 8b, requiring world-class performance. |
| 5.14a | 8b+ | Very high difficulty routes requiring exceptional preparation. |
| 5.14b | 8c | Extremely demanding routes, virtually reserved for the best climbers. |
| 5.14c | 8c+ | Very high difficulty routes requiring optimal physical and technical condition. |
| 5.14d | 9a | Among the hardest routes in the world, requiring exceptional abilities. |
| 5.15a | 9a+ | Extremely rare and difficult routes requiring elite-level performance. |
| 5.15b | 9b | The highest possible difficulty routes currently, practically reserved for the best climbers in the world. |
| 5.15c | 9b+ | Theoretically possible but extremely rare routes, requiring exceptional physical and technical condition. |
| 5.15d | 9c | The hardest routes in the world to this day. |
History of the Origins of French Climbing Grades
Difficulty Grades
In 1935, Lucien Devies, a prominent French mountaineer, head of the GHM (Groupe de Haute Montagne), and editor-in-chief of the magazine *Alpinisme*, the leading publication of the time, published a proposed grading system for difficulties in the Western Alps. This grading scale measured the overall difficulty of a route. It marked the advent of mountain grades in the form of letters: F (for facile/easy), AD (for assez difficile/fairly difficult), D (difficile/difficult), TD (for très difficile/very difficult), ED (for extrêmement difficile/extremely difficult).
In 1943, Lucien Devies refined this grading scale by introducing a section grading system using a numerical scale ranging from 1st degree to 6th degree. A mountain route was then graded in its entirety using the letter scale, for example, D (difficult), but with a more precise indication of the hardest section using a number, such as 5th degree.
The 6th degree represented the maximum possible difficulty at that time.
In 1947, the grading system evolved once again to further subdivide the 6th degree and refine the grades. This led to the introduction of letters from A to Z. Theoretically, routes could range from 6A to 6Z.
Under pressure from climbers in Fontainebleau and with the strong influence of the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation), the 7th degree was finally added in 1979.
Since then, climbers' performances have progressed so much that the grading system has followed suit, now reaching 9C.
Bouldering Grades (Fontainebleau System)
As Fontainebleau forest is a historic site for bouldering, the bouldering grading system is intrinsically linked to it. The first grades were developed for the boulders in Fontainebleau before being extended to other climbing sites in France and around the world.
The earliest bouldering grades in Fontainebleau, which were simple and few in number, date back to the early 20th century.
Then, in the 1940s and 1950s, alphanumeric grades appeared for a more precise rating of the problems.
Nowadays, the Fontainebleau system for bouldering is recognised worldwide and used in many bouldering spots across the globe.
The earliest bouldering grades in Fontainebleau, which were simple and few in number, date back to the early 20th century.
Then, in the 1940s and 1950s, alphanumeric grades appeared for a more precise rating of the problems.
Nowadays, the Fontainebleau system for bouldering is recognised worldwide and used in many bouldering spots across the globe.
Bouldering Grading Table:
| American Grading (V-Scale) | French Grading (Fontainebleau) | Description |
|---|---|---|
| VB | 3 | Very easy boulder, suitable for complete beginners, similar to indoor climbing on very large holds. |
| V0 | 4 | Easy boulder, requiring good footwork and moderate strength. |
| V1 | 5 | Moderate boulder, requiring basic technique and slightly more strength. |
| V2 | 5+ | Boulder requiring better technique and good use of intermediate holds. |
| V3 | 6A | Boulder requiring solid technique, more complex moves, and full-body strength. |
| V4 | 6B | Difficult boulder, requiring very good technique and significant strength. |
| V5 | 6C | Very difficult boulder, demanding excellent technique and high-level strength. |
| V6 | 7A | Extremely difficult boulder, requiring advanced technique and exceptional strength. |
| V7 | 7A+ | Very complex and demanding boulder, with high-level technical moves. |
| V8 | 7B | Very high difficulty boulder, requiring elite strength and technique. |
| V9 | 7B+ | Extremely difficult boulder, demanding perfect precision and exceptional strength. |
| V10 | 7C | Highly technical and physically demanding boulder, reserved for very experienced climbers. |
| V11 | 7C+ | Boulder requiring top-level technique and superhuman strength. |
| V12 | 8A | Elite-level boulder, with very complex moves and extreme strength. |
| V13 | 8A+ | Extremely technical and challenging boulder, requiring exceptional strength. |
| V14 | 8B | Very high difficulty boulder, requiring world-class strength and perfect technique. |
| V15 | 8B+ | World-class boulder, requiring exceptional strength and technique. |
| V16 | 8C | Elite-level boulder, with extremely technical moves and superhuman strength. |
| V17 | 8C+ | Among the hardest boulders in the world, requiring top-level strength and technique. |
UK Traditional Climbing Grades Explained
The British traditional climbing grading system uses a unique two-tier approach that combines an adjectival grade with a technical grade to assess the difficulty of a climb. The adjectival grade gives an overall sense of how challenging the route is, factoring in elements such as strenuousness, exposure, and protection. These start from Easy (E), followed by Moderate (M), Difficult (D), Hard Difficult (HD), Very Difficult (VD), Hard Very Difficult (HVD), Severe (S), Hard Severe (HS), and Very Severe (VS). For more challenging routes, the system progresses to Hard Very Severe (HVS) and then into the Extremely Severe category, which is further subdivided into E1, E2, E3, and so on, indicating increasing levels of difficulty. On the other hand, the technical grade reflects the difficulty of the hardest single move on the route, with numbers starting around 4a and progressing upwards. This combination allows climbers to assess both the physical and mental demands of a climb, distinguishing between routes that are technically challenging and those that are strenuous or poorly protected. Together, these two grades provide a comprehensive understanding of what to expect from a climb.