The Different Types of Climbing Carabiners: How to Choose the Right Model?

The climbing carabiner is an essential piece of equipment for any climber. Versatile and crucial for safety, it connects various elements of the belay system, whether for lead or seconding, belay stations, or manoeuvres in climbing. However, not all carabiners are the same, and choosing the right model according to its intended use can make a significant difference in terms of safety and performance. This article will guide you through the different types of carabiners available, their specific features, and their applications, helping you select the best option for your needs.

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An Essential Accessory in a Climber’s Gear

The carabiner is much more than just an accessory—it is a key component of climbing safety. Used to connect ropes, quickdraws, belay devices, or anchor systems, it must be both strong, reliable, and suited to its intended use. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, understanding the different types of carabiners and their specific features is essential to ensuring your safety.

What Is an HMS Carabiner?

An HMS carabiner (Halbmastwurf Sicherung, meaning ‘Munter hitch’ in German) is a pear-shaped asymmetrical model with a wide base and a narrower upper section. This shape facilitates the use of knots such as the Munter hitch and is recommended as a belay carabiner for attaching a belay device to the harness belay loop. Its specific design helps keep the rope(s) properly aligned when belaying.

What Is a Type B Carabiner?

Type B carabiners are basic models, commonly used for simple tasks such as connecting quickdraws or lanyards. They are generally lighter and more affordable than specialized models. However, the highly asymmetrical shape of a Type B carabiner makes it an excellent choice for building anchors, as the rope naturally slides close to the major axis, away from the gate opening. With Type B models, you can fully utilize the certified strength of the equipment.

To make identification easier, manufacturers mark carabiners with an ‘H’ for HMS models and a ‘B’ for Type B models. Some carabiners meet both standards and are marked ‘H+B’.

Auto-locking or Screwgate Models?

Auto-locking carabiners feature a locking system that closes automatically when you release the gate and sleeve, providing enhanced safety by preventing accidental openings and forgotten closures. They are ideal as belay carabiners for indoor climbing, as they save valuable time on every route. On the other hand, manual screwgate carabiners require manual locking. They are lighter and often more affordable but demand constant attention to ensure they are properly closed.

Tip: When climbing on crags or multi-pitch routes, apart from your belay carabiner, we recommend using the same locking system across all your carabiners to avoid wasting time checking whether each one is auto-locking or manual.

What Is a Directional Carabiner?

Directional carabiners are designed to always remain properly oriented. This ensures they work along their strongest axis. These models are particularly useful as belay carabiners on the harness belay loop, whether using a standard belay device, a GriGri, or any other assisted-braking system. They are also commonly used in mountaineering, allowing a rope to be secured with a simple clove hitch at the harness tie-in point.

Which Carabiner for a Climbing Lanyard and Personal Anchoring?

For personal anchoring—attaching yourself to an anchor point with a lanyard—it is recommended to use a screwgate or auto-locking carabiner, preferably a Type B, and ideally in a D-shape. Type B models have the advantage of always guiding the rope towards the major axis for optimal strength. The D-shape design offers the best grip, even when wearing gloves.

Tip: You can add a small rubber keeper between the lanyard loop and the carabiner, similar to those on quickdraws, to ensure the carabiner stays correctly oriented at all times.

Which Carabiner for the Belay System?

For the belay system, a directional carabiner is generally recommended, especially when using a device like a GriGri. The small locking spur prevents the carabiner from rotating on the harness and shifting onto the minor axis, which is the least favourable position for absorbing a climber's fall. An auto-locking or screwgate model is essential to prevent accidental openings.

Which Carabiner for Abseiling/Rappelling?

Abseiling typically requires two carabiners: one for the lanyard to secure the belay device and a second for the backup friction hitch, such as a Prusik or Machard knot. As mentioned earlier, the lanyard carabiner should preferably be a Type B, while the auxiliary carabiner can be less specific.

Which Carabiner for Building an Anchor?

For anchors, a large Type B carabiner with an automatic or screwgate locking mechanism is ideal. Its shape ensures the rope is always guided along the strongest axis while making rope and knot handling easier. The locking system guarantees maximum security.

When setting up a self-equalizing anchor, you will need two Type B carabiners at the anchor points and a third to connect the two strands of the anchor. For the latter, choosing a larger-sized model provides greater comfort and more space for manoeuvring.

When Should You Use a Large Carabiner?

A large carabiner is used in situations requiring a high load capacity. For example, when hauling a heavy bag or performing complex manoeuvres on multi-pitch climbs, a large carabiner provides better load distribution, easier handling, and accommodates more equipment.

All the Top Brands Are Available at Glisshop

Glisshop offers a selection of the best carabiners from leading brands, including carabiners from Petzl, Black Diamond, Beal, Camp, Climbing Technology, Edelrid, Grivel, and Ocun. Whether you need an HMS, Type B, directional, auto-locking, or screwgate carabiner, you’ll find the perfect model to meet your specific needs.

How to Know a Carabiner's Strength? How Much Weight Can It Withstand?

The strength of a carabiner is typically indicated in kilonewtons (kN) on the label or the body of the carabiner. For example, a carabiner marked ‘25 kN’ can withstand a load of 25 kilonewtons before breaking (assuming optimal use). It is essential to check this information to ensure that the carabiner is suitable for its intended purpose and the loads it will need to bear.

In conclusion, choosing the right carabiner is crucial for your safety and to optimize your climbing performance. By understanding the differences between carabiner types and their specific uses, you can make an informed choice and fully enjoy your climbs. Glisshop helps you in this process by offering a selection of the best products on the market. If you have any doubts or questions, don't hesitate to give us a call.

A Quick Reminder About Carabiner Standards

Climbing carabiners must meet strict standards to ensure their safety and strength. In Europe, climbing carabiners comply with the EN 12275 standard. This certification guarantees that carabiners can withstand specific loads and pass resistance and durability tests.

The EN 12275 standard specifies the following strength ratings:

• 20 kN along the major axis with the gate closed (equivalent to 2000 kg)
• 7 kN along the major axis with the gate open (equivalent to 700 kg)
• 7 kN along the minor axis with the gate closed (equivalent to 700 kg)

When Should You Replace a Carabiner?

In theory, a climbing carabiner has an unlimited lifespan, unlike fabric-based PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) such as harnesses and ropes, which require regular replacement.

However, certain factors can cause significant and premature wear on a carabiner. For example, the mechanical friction of the rope on the belay carabiner can gradually wear down the metal, creating an increasingly deep groove. When this wear becomes visible to the eye or noticeable to the touch, it is time to retire the carabiner.

Other incidents can also occur outdoors, such as a carabiner or quickdraw falling from a great height or improper use on a sharp edge with strong leverage. In the first case, an impact with the ground may cause micro-cracks in the metal, while in the second, the carabiner may have been deformed under stress. This is especially true for lightweight wire-gate carabiners. If there is any doubt, it is recommended to replace the equipment.