Everything You Need to Know About Climbing: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners and Enthusiasts

Contents

What are the Three Disciplines of Climbing?

Climbing is a diverse sport that includes several disciplines, each offering a unique experience and requiring specific skills.

Each type of climbing offers unique challenges and allows you to develop a variety of skills. Whether you are drawn to the raw strength and playful nature of bouldering, the endurance and adrenaline of sport climbing, or the power of speed climbing, there is a discipline that will match your aspirations and climbing style.

The Different Disciplines of Sport Climbing: Aid Climbing, Trad Climbing, Free Climbing, Solo, or Free Solo

Sport climbing comes in several variants, each offering a unique approach and specific challenges.

Traditional Climbing (or Trad) is the most traditional form, as the name suggests. It uses equipment such as aiders (or ladders) or hammered pitons to progress on very steep or smooth rock faces where natural holds are scarce. It was widely practiced before the advent of modern climbing, which introduced its own distinct movements and techniques. Historic routes once climbed using aid are now completed as free climbs much more quickly—this is what is known as ‘freeing a route’.

In contrast, Free Climbing, the purest and most modern form, involves climbing using only natural holds without any artificial aid, all while being secured by a rope. For this, anchors may be pre-installed on the cliff or not.

Each style of sport climbing offers a unique way to explore personal limits and connect with nature.

Difference between Indoor and Outdoor Climbing

Indoor climbing and outdoor climbing offer two distinct experiences. Indoor climbing is practiced on artificial structures, often in controlled and secure environments with closely spaced holds. The walls are fitted with coloured holds that indicate the routes to follow, allowing climbers to focus on technique and strength without the constraints of weather conditions or natural hazards. It is an excellent way for beginners to get started and for experienced climbers to train regularly.

On the other hand, outdoor climbing takes place on natural rock faces. It offers a more authentic and immersive experience, where climbers must read the rock, assess natural holds, and contend with the elements. This practice requires more thorough preparation, particularly in terms of safety and risk management, but it provides a unique satisfaction from challenging nature. Outdoor climbing also requires a solid mastery of all rope techniques and the manoeuvres possible in case of a problem or a jam during the climb. It is a more demanding practice than indoor climbing, with more widely spaced holds, potentially exposed sections, and hazards such as falling rocks.

Outdoor climbing can also take place on big wall routes. This practice involves linking multiple pitches to reach the summit. At each belay stance at the end of a pitch, the leader pulls up their second before continuing upward on the next pitch. With a single rope, one can thus cover considerable heights.

Both environments are complementary, allowing climbers to develop a comprehensive range of skills and experience a variety of adventures.

Managing the Environmental Impact of Outdoor Climbing

Climbing in natural environments also requires respecting nature and other outdoor enthusiasts, whether they are climbers or hikers. The first rule is to leave no waste behind, not even organic matter. Overcrowding at climbing sites often leads to a rapid accumulation of litter, some of which can take a long time to break down. It is also important to be discreet in nature, avoiding loud music. Excessive use of chalk on holds and crimps should be avoided to keep the rock as clean as possible. As for human waste, it should be disposed of as far away as possible, and never under overhangs or in caves, as these sheltered areas prevent natural decomposition.

Understanding Climbing Grades

Climbing grades are used to classify routes based on their difficulty, allowing climbers to choose routes suited to their level and track their progress over time.

Essential Climbing Gear and Equipment

Climbing requires specialised equipment to ensure safety and optimise performance. Here is an overview of the essential gear:

Recent Advances in Climbing Equipment

In recent years, climbing gear has evolved significantly due to technological advancements that have transformed the sport. Modern dynamic ropes, made from nylon or braided polyethylene, offer greater elasticity and shock resistance while being lighter and more durable. Today's ergonomic harnesses are designed for superior comfort and optimal weight distribution, featuring adjustable buckles and padding for a perfect fit. Removable protection devices such as nuts and cams have largely replaced pitons, reducing environmental impact while enhancing safety. Modern climbing shoes, crafted from advanced synthetic materials and high-performance rubber, provide maximum grip and exceptional foot placement precision. Additionally, the use of lightweight and durable materials such as aluminium and advanced alloys has significantly reduced the weight of climbing equipment without compromising strength.

Rope

The rope is the core element of climbing gear, ensuring the climber's safety in case of a fall. The climbing pair is even referred to as a ‘rope team’ in both rock climbing and mountaineering. Modern climbing ropes are dynamic, meaning they can absorb fall energy thanks to their elasticity. They come in various lengths and diameters, suited to different climbing styles and skill levels. The rope serves as the vital link between the climber and the belayer, making proper maintenance crucial for optimal safety. For sport climbing, ropes are stored and transported in a rope bag, while for multi-pitch climbing or long approaches, they are carried in a rucksack or coiled around the body.

Climbing Harness

The harness, often referred to as a climbing harness, is a safety device worn around the waist and thighs. It connects the climber to the rope through strong tie-in points known as the belay loop. A good climbing harness should be comfortable, adjustable, and equipped with gear loops to carry additional equipment such as quickdraws and carabiners. It is essential for fall protection and for supporting the climber during rests while hanging on the rope.

Climbing Shoes

Climbing shoes are specially designed to provide maximum grip on rock or indoor holds. Their rubber soles and snug fit enhance precision and sensitivity on small footholds. The choice of rock shoes depends on the climbing discipline and personal comfort, with models ranging from soft to stiff, and wide to narrow fits.

Quickdraws

Quickdraws are quick-connect devices consisting of two carabiners connected by a strong sling. They are used to clip the rope into protection points on the wall, ensuring safe progression. Climbing quickdraws should be strong and easy to handle, even with one hand. Their quantity and type vary depending on the route length and difficulty.

Carabiners

The carabiner is a versatile safety component used to connect various pieces of climbing equipment. It consists of a metal loop with a locking mechanism that can be opened and closed. Carabiners are used to attach the rope to the harness, create anchor points, and carry gear. They come in different shapes and sizes, each suited to specific climbing applications.

These pieces of equipment are essential for safe climbing, allowing climbers to focus on performance while reducing risks.

Belay Device and Descender

The belay device is a small metal device through which the rope is fed and attached to the harness. It enables the belayer to control the rope and catch a fall. Historically, climbers used a figure-eight descender, but these have now been largely replaced by tube-style devices and assisted-braking belay devices like the Petzl Reverso.

In addition to these essentials, climbers should complete their gear with a helmet and a chalk bag. A climbing helmet is crucial for outdoor climbing, protecting against falling rocks and head impacts during falls.

However, if you are only planning to do indoor bouldering, a simple pair of climbing shoes will suffice.

For more details, check out our guide: What Gear Do You Need to Start Climbing?

Fundamental Climbing Techniques

Climbing is a sport that requires not only strength and endurance but also technical mastery of movements and equipment. Here is an overview of essential techniques for every climber.

Holds: Types of Hand and Foot Holds

Hand Holds

• Open-Hand Grip: Used on small holds, this involves placing the fingers flat on the hold, often using the thumb for stability.
• Sloper: Ideal for larger holds, requiring the fingers to spread out to maximise surface contact.
• Pinch Grip: Used for vertical holds, involving pinching the hold between the thumb and fingers.
• Two-Finger and Mono-Finger Pocket: Holds with a hole allowing two fingers or even just one to be inserted.
• Undercling: A smooth hold on top but gripable from underneath. To effectively use an undercling, the climber must quickly position themselves so that the hold is at elbow height or below.

Foot Holds

• Toe Placement: Using the tip of the foot on small holds for greater precision.
• Heel Hook: Using the heel to apply counter-pressure, providing extra stability. A good heel hook often allows the climber to free one hand to reach for another hold or clip the rope.
• Outer Edge: Using the outer side of the climbing shoe to balance on a hold while positioning the body sideways.

Movements: Weight Transfer and Balance

Weight transfer is crucial for maintaining balance and conserving energy. It involves shifting the centre of gravity smoothly from one foot to the other. Maintaining good balance requires proper posture and effective use of footholds. Keeping the hips close to the wall and using the legs for stability is key.

Knots: Essential Climbing Knots

Figure-Eight Knot

This knot is the standard for tying into a climbing harness. It is easy to check visually, highly secure, and can be untied relatively easily even after a fall.

Clove Hitch

The clove hitch is a highly practical knot that can be tied with one or both hands. It is used to quickly attach the rope to an anchor point. Its major advantage is that it can be undone effortlessly by simply sliding it off the anchor.

Communication: Safety Calls and Signals

Climbing has its own vocabulary. In outdoor climbing, it can often be difficult to communicate between the lead climber and the belayer due to distance, wind, or loss of visual contact. Therefore, mastering the correct terminology is essential.

Verbal Commands

• ’Climbing’: Signals the start of the climb.
• ’Take’: The climber asks the belayer to take in the slack and hold the rope tight.
• ’Safe’: The climber indicates they have secured themselves to a solid anchor point.
• ’Rope!’: Warns others of a falling rope or rope being thrown down.

For more details, check out our climbing terminology guide.

Visual Signals

• Use clear hand gestures to communicate, especially in noisy environments or when verbal communication is difficult. A strong connection between climbing partners is key to efficiency and safety.

Belaying: Lead Climbing vs. Top-Roping

There are two main styles of climbing in terms of rope management. If the rope is already set up through an anchor at the top, it is called top-rope climbing. In this setup, falls are minimal as the rope is always tight above the climber. Alternatively, if the wall or crag is not pre-equipped with a rope, the climber must clip quickdraws into protection points while ascending, known as lead climbing. In this case, the climber moves above their last protection point, and if they fall before clipping into the next quickdraw, they will fall twice the distance to the last clipped point. Lead climbing is therefore more demanding and psychologically challenging than top-roping. Not only is the fall potential (or ‘whipper’) greater, but managing quickdraws from the harness, clipping them into bolts, and threading the rope through them requires additional strength and endurance compared to simply climbing on a pre-set rope.

How to Get Started? Everything You Need to Know About Climbing Courses and Training

Starting rock climbing can seem daunting, but with the right guidance and proper training, it's an adventure accessible to everyone. Here’s how to begin and everything you need to know about climbing courses and training sessions:

Choosing a Place to Climb

For beginners, it’s recommended to start in an indoor climbing gym or, even better, join a local climbing club. Indoor gyms provide a safe and controlled environment, ideal for learning the basics. They offer walls with routes of various levels, allowing for gradual progression. Climbing clubs often have access to climbing walls and provide structured training, including instruction on belaying and climbing safely both indoors and outdoors.

Taking an Introductory Course

Most climbing gyms offer beginner courses. These sessions are led by qualified instructors who teach fundamental techniques such as tying a figure-eight knot, belaying, and basic climbing movements. Courses are usually structured over several sessions, allowing beginners to progressively acquire essential skills. While private gym lessons can be costly, courses in clubs are often free with an annual membership.

Joining a Training Camp

For those looking for a more immersive experience, climbing training camps are an excellent option. Held over several days, often in outdoor settings, these camps allow participants to experience climbing on natural rock. They are supervised by professional guides who teach not only climbing techniques but also specific safety rules for outdoor environments.

Getting the Right Gear

Before starting, it’s essential to have the right equipment. Most gyms and clubs offer gear rental for beginners, allowing them to try the sport without making an immediate investment. The basic equipment includes a harness, climbing shoes, and a belay device. If you decide to continue, you may want to invest in your own gear, including a rope, a set of quickdraws, and a climbing helmet.

Practicing Regularly

Like any physical activity, consistency is key in climbing. Regular practice helps develop strength, core stability, technique, and confidence. Climbing at least once a week helps maintain skills, twice a week allows for steady progress, and three times or more per week is ideal for significant improvement.

Joining a Club

Climbing is also a social activity. Joining a club and participating in organised outings allows you to meet other climbers, share tips, and stay motivated. The climbing community is generally welcoming and eager to help newcomers. Clubs also provide an opportunity to build trust with climbing partners over time, ensuring safer and more enjoyable experiences.

How to Progress?

Climbing is an incredible sport, but progress can sometimes be slow and requires unwavering dedication.

Advancing in climbing is based on a combination of physical training, technique, and strategic planning. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, here are some tips to enhance your skills and reach new heights.

Specific Exercises: Strength Training, Flexibility, Endurance

Strength Training

• Fingers and Forearms: Use hangboards or pull-up exercises to strengthen your fingers and forearms, which are crucial for grip strength.
• Core Strength: A strong core is essential for maintaining balance and stability, especially on overhangs. Incorporate exercises such as planks and dynamic core workouts.
• Legs: Don't neglect your lower body. Squats, lunges, and jump exercises can enhance your power and endurance. Strong quadriceps will allow you to push off footholds efficiently and stand up easily, even when your leg is fully bent.

Flexibility

• Dynamic and Static Stretching: Regular stretching helps improve your range of motion, which is particularly beneficial for complex climbing movements. Focus on hip-opening exercises as well.

Endurance

• Continuous Training: Climb longer routes or extend your sessions on the wall to build endurance.
• Climbing Circuits: Link multiple routes with minimal rest to simulate the conditions of a long climb.

Planning: How to Structure Your Training for Progress

Initial Assessment

Start by evaluating your current level and identifying weaknesses. This will help you set realistic goals and focus on areas that need improvement.

Specific Goals

Set clear and measurable objectives, such as climbing a route of a certain difficulty or improving your technique on a specific type of hold.

Periodisation

Structure your training in cycles, alternating between intense work phases and recovery periods. This helps prevent injuries and maximises progress.

Variety

Vary the types of climbing (bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing) and styles (slab, overhangs, dihedral) to develop a well-rounded skill set.

Rest and Recovery

Give equal importance to rest and recovery. Rest is essential for your body to rebuild and adapt to exertion. Significant progress is often observed after a substantial recovery phase.

What Is the Ideal Body Type for Climbing?

Climbing is a sport that can be practised by people of all body types. However, certain physical characteristics can provide advantages:

1. Power-to-weight ratio: A good power-to-weight ratio is beneficial, as it makes it easier to lift your own body weight. Lighter climbers may find it easier to move on smaller holds and overhanging sections.
2. Finger and forearm strength: Strong fingers and forearms are essential for gripping holds and executing dynamic movements.
3. Flexibility: Good flexibility allows you to reach distant holds and perform smoother movements.
4. Core strength: A strong core helps maintain balance and stability, which is crucial for technical movements.
5. Muscular endurance: Endurance is important for longer routes, where sustained effort is required over an extended period.
6. Height and reach: While height is not a decisive factor, a good reach can be an advantage for grabbing distant holds, especially on slab routes. Shorter climbers often develop creative solutions to compensate for a shorter reach.

However, it is important to note that climbing is an accessible sport for everyone. With training and technique, almost anyone can improve and enjoy the activity. Body type is just one of many factors that can influence climbing performance.

Frequently Asked Questions About Climbing

What do you call a man or woman who climbs?

A man or woman who climbs is generally called a climber. These terms are widely used within the climbing community to refer to practitioners of the sport, whether they are amateurs or professionals.

What are the synonyms for climbing?

The term ‘climbing’ can have several synonyms or related expressions depending on the context in which it is used. Here are some synonyms and associated terms:

1. Climb: A commonly used term to describe the activity of climbing.
2. Mountaineering: While often associated with mountain ascents, it can include climbing techniques.
3. Scrambling: scrambling refers to ascending steep, rocky terrain where hands are needed for balance and support, bridging the gap between walking and rock climbing.

At what age can you start climbing?

Climbing can be started at a relatively young age, often as soon as a child is able to follow basic instructions and understand safety guidelines. In these cases, a children's climbing harness is used, which also supports the back and shoulders. Many clubs accept children from the age of 5 or 6.

Climbing can be an excellent way for children to develop strength, coordination, confidence, and problem-solving skills.

What are the benefits of this sport?

Climbing is a full-body workout that offers numerous physical and mental benefits. It strengthens muscle tone and flexibility while providing a stretching effect. It is not uncommon for back pain to improve after a climbing session. The sport also helps build self-confidence and teaches individuals how to overcome fear while staying focused on a given objective. Some even view climbing as a form of meditative release from daily worries. Additionally, it fosters trust in others, as you rely on your belayer for safety.

What are the three disciplines in climbing? What are the three types of competition events?

The three climbing disciplines recognised by the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. These are the three events now featured in the Olympic Games.

What is the difference between climbing and scrambling?

Scrambling is a type of movement that bridges the gap between hiking and rock climbing. It involves using both hands and feet to navigate steep, rocky, or uneven terrain where walking alone is not sufficient for stability. Unlike rock climbing, which typically requires ropes and protective gear, scrambling is usually done unroped on less technical routes.

In hiking, scrambling often becomes necessary when the trail crosses rugged or exposed sections, such as ridges, boulder fields, or steep rock faces. It is commonly found in mountainous terrain, where trails may transition from regular walking paths to sections requiring hands-on movement for balance and support. While scrambling can add an adventurous element to a hike, it requires careful footing and good judgment to ensure safety.

Can everyone do climbing?

Yes, anyone can try a climbing session. Of course, reaching the highest grading levels requires dedication, training, and optimising one's power-to-weight ratio, but anyone can climb an easy route. Climbing is also accessible to people with disabilities. In climbing clubs, it is not uncommon to see visually impaired climbers or individuals with physical disabilities affecting their arms or legs. It all comes down to determination and balance.

Is climbing difficult?

Moving vertically is not a natural motion for humans. In this sense, climbing can be considered challenging. It requires a certain degree of muscular strength, but more importantly, mental resilience to step out of one’s comfort zone and overcome the fear of falling, particularly when lead climbing.

A Brief History of Climbing

Climbing, as a sport, has its roots in 19th-century alpine activities. Initially, it was closely linked to mountaineering, where climbers scaled mountains to reach summits. Early notable ascents, such as the first climb of Mont Blanc in 1786 by Jacques Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard, marked the beginning of vertical exploration. Over time, climbing gradually separated from mountaineering to become an independent discipline. In the 1930s and 1940s, climbers like Pierre Allain in France began exploring cliffs and rock faces purely for the joy of climbing itself, developing techniques and equipment that are still in use today. The introduction of climbing shoes and carabiners enabled technical advancements, making climbing more accessible and safer. Today, climbing is a recognised sport with international competitions and a growing global community of enthusiasts.

Fontainebleau: A Legendary Climbing Destination

Located near Paris, the Fontainebleau forest is renowned worldwide as one of the birthplaces of modern climbing. Its famous sandstone boulders, scattered throughout a pristine natural setting, offer thousands of climbing ‘problems’ for all skill levels, attracting beginners and elite climbers from across the globe. As early as the 20th century, Parisian mountaineers began training on these rocks, developing techniques and ethics that have profoundly influenced bouldering. Today, Fontainebleau remains an essential destination for climbing and bouldering enthusiasts, where each session is an opportunity to refine technique and connect with the rich history of the sport.