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Which are the lightest locking climbing carabiners?

Essential in climbing and mountaineering, locking carabiners are used to connect elements of the belay system. They are used for tethering yourself to an anchor, abseiling, building belay stations, placing protection points, setting up hauling systems... In short, they’re a key component you simply can’t do without.

An incredible range of carabiners

Nowadays, every manufacturer offers a wide selection of locking carabiners, whether screwgate or auto-locking. If you need help understanding the topic, feel free to check out our guide: "how to choose your climbing carabiners". But beyond the purely technical choice of your climbing gear, it’s also worth considering its weight.

Lightweight carabiners for multi-pitch climbs and mountaineering

When setting off for a day on a multi-pitch route or heading into the mountains for several days, it’s important to choose your carabiners wisely. It’s not uncommon to have half a dozen clipped to your harness – or even more on certain routes. And when you compare the weight of all the models available, you quickly realise that for the same minimum certified strength, the weight of carabiners can vary dramatically. By opting for the lightest models, you can easily shave over 200 g off the gear hanging from your harness.

Comparison table of all screwgate carabiners currently available on the market

Model Brand Weight (g) Category
Hawk ScrewOcun42B
Photon LockCamp43B
Be QuickBeal44B
Orbit LockCamp45B
Rocha screw lockPetzl45H
Sm’d Screw LockPetzl46B
Hotforge ScrewgateBlack Diamond50B
Pure ScrewEdelrid50B
Pure Screw IIIEdelrid50B
Nitro LockCamp56H
WarlockClimbing Technlogy56H
HMS Strike ScrewEdelrid57H
Attache Screw LockPetzl58H
Be One ScrewBeal58B
Attache BarPetzl63H
Oval Keylock ScrewgateBlack Diamond63X
Be Link ScrewPetzl65H
Be Safe SrewBeal66B
Nimbus LockCamp69H
Am’d Screw LockPetzl70B
Oval Power 2500 ScrewEdelrid71B
Eagle HMS ScrewOcun73H
HMS Bullet ScrewEdelrid74H
Gridlock ScrewgateBlack Diamond76H
Pearlock ScrewgateBlack Diamond76H
Orient ExpressBeal81H
Core LockCamp81H
Atom LockCamp82B
HMS Bulletproof ScrewEdelrid82H
Core Belay LockCamp84H
William Screw LockPetzl85B / H
Rocklock ScrewgateBlack Diamond85H
Be Lock ScrewBeal86H
lightweight climbing carabiner

Which are the lightest carabiners?

By looking at the table above, we can see that the lightest type B carabiners are the Hawk Screw by Ocun, the Photon Lock by Camp, and the Be Quick by Beal, weighing 42, 43, and 44 grams respectively. These are minimalist versions, but they’re more than adequate for most common operations, whether on the crag or in the mountains.

In the HMS category (class H), the Rocha Screw Lock from Petzl clearly stands out at just 45 grams.

As for pricing, the type B models mentioned are all fairly similar. The final decision will mostly come down to the feel and quality of the locking sleeve – and of course, the colour.