In short: key points to remember
- Adhesion technologies: traditional glue (reliability) or self-adhesive (ease of use)
- Available fibres: mohair, synthetic or mixed (70/30)
- Attachment systems: front bracket, rear clip, insert or quick-tension
- Selection criteria: experience level, snow type, tour length
- Maintenance: essential to extend lifespan (up to 120 outings)
How do climbing skins work?
Climbing skins are one of the essentials for ski touring. They are fixed to the base of the ski and allow you to climb slopes without sliding backwards thanks to their uni-directional fibres: they glide forwards but grip when pressure is applied backwards. This is known as the anti-slip effect. A climbing skin is made up of an adhesive surface in contact with the ski base, a fibre or mohair surface in contact with the snow, and an attachment system that secures it to both ends of the ski.
How do climbing skins stick to the ski?
For a long time, traditional glue skins were the standard. They provide excellent grip but require folding onto a mesh backing, regular re-gluing, and careful handling of the adhesive. Nowadays, self-adhesive skins use a glue-free system (molecular suction cups or acrylate adhesive), making them easier to use and maintain.
Worth remembering: glue provides reliable adhesion but requires upkeep. Self-adhesive skins are more convenient, though they come at a slightly higher cost.
1 - Glue climbing skins
This is the oldest and most proven system. Glue skins adhere firmly to the ski base. However, they require regular maintenance (re-gluing), careful storage on a protective mesh, and can sometimes be messy to handle. They remain a safe bet, widely appreciated for their reliability.
2 - Glue-free (self-adhesive) skins
Developed by brands such as Camp, Colltex or Gecko, self-adhesive skins work through a suction effect. They require neither glue nor re-gluing. Easier to handle, they can be folded onto themselves, washed with lukewarm water, and are ideal for skiers looking for simplicity. Their price is slightly higher, but they are popular thanks to their ease of use.
What fibres are used for climbing skins?
Originally, ski touring used real animal hides with short, stiff hair (mainly seal or elk skins). That is no longer the case today. There are now three main types of skins: 100% mohair skins, 100% synthetic skins, and mixed skins that combine the advantages of both fibres. You should therefore choose your skin type carefully according to your skiing style and the level of performance you’re looking for.
1 - Mohair skins
2 - Synthetic skins
3 - Mixed or hybrid skins: mohair + synthetic
Comparison of skin types
| Type of skin | Glide | Grip | Durability | Maintenance | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 100% Mohair | +++++ | ++++ | +++ | High | Racers/Competitors |
| Synthetic | +++ | +++ | +++++ | Low | Beginners, budget-conscious skiers |
| Mixed (70/30) | ++++ | ++++ | ++++ | Moderate | Regular users |
The different attachment systems for climbing skins
While skins stick to the ski base thanks to their adhesive surface, they also need to be securely held in place by a mechanical system at the tip, sometimes complemented by a tail attachment. Different systems are available depending on the manufacturer: a strap system that hooks over the ski tip, an insert system that requires a dedicated notch on the ski, and a quick-tension stretcher system designed for racing. As for the tail attachment, it is usually a Camlock tensioner, though its role remains fairly secondary.
1 – Ski tip attachment with bracket
The bracket is placed at the front of the ski tip. It is the most common system and the most versatile. It fits the majority of skis.
2 - Ski tip bracket with tail clip
3 - Insert attachment
4 - Quick-tension or stretcher attachment
So, which climbing skins should I choose?
We recommend taking several factors into account:
1 - First, you ski’s sidecut
While some manufacturers offer pre-cut skins designed for specific ski models, you will usually need to trim the skins yourself to the desired width. Allow a few extra millimetres in width to make shaping easier. Example: for a ski with a 96 mm waist, choose a climbing skin of around 100 mm.
2 - Then, your ski touring style
- For racers or users focused on performance, we recommend a glue skin with a quick-tension system and 100% mohair fibre, which promotes glide and solid grip in all snow and weather conditions. However, note that for optimum efficiency, fibre choice will depend on the race and snow type.
- For regular ski tourers who go out in all snow types and weather conditions, it’s best to choose a glue skin with a front bracket and rear clip, using a mixed fibre (70% mohair, 30% synthetic) for greater comfort and optimal durability.
- Occasional skiers who favour leisure tours or those new to ski touring can opt for either glue-free skins for ease of use, or glue skins for their effectiveness and robustness, whether synthetic or mixed fibre. In both cases, a front and rear attachment system is recommended.
Frequently asked questions:
How do you cut climbing skins?
Place the skin centred on the ski, adhesive side against the base. Cut with a cutter, leaving 1 to 2 mm of the edges visible. Finish with the tips. A double-blade cutter can make the job easier. For more details, see our tutorial: How to cut climbing skins.
How do you put on and remove climbing skins?
Attach the tip according to the system used, unroll the skin down to the tail and fasten it if necessary. Smooth it out well. To remove, start by detaching the tail, then the tip. Immediately fold the skins back on themselves or onto a mesh backing.
How do you care for climbing skins?
Dry them at room temperature, never on a direct heat source. Glue-free models can be rinsed in lukewarm water. Clean glued models with a suitable wipe and apply an anti-balling product if needed.
How should climbing skins be stored at the end of the season?
Once dry, fold them properly (on mesh or onto themselves, depending on the type) and store them in a cool, dry place, away from light and humidity.
When should they be replaced?
When the glue no longer holds despite re-gluing, when the fibres are worn out, or when they consistently accumulate snow. A good pair of skins can last between 80 and 120 outings depending on use and maintenance.