Petzl Neox

Neox Belay Device Review and Test: The New Grigri?

Using the Neox feels similar to the Grigri, but the real difference becomes evident when feeding slack to the climber. Thanks to the integrated pulley, the rope glides effortlessly. There's no need to hold the cam in any specific way; simply step slightly towards the wall to feed slack quickly and smoothly, without jamming the system.

During descent, the rope flows faster due to the pulley. It's essential to maintain control to prevent the rope from running too quickly.

In the event of a sharp fall, the Neox performs similarly to the Grigri, offering near-instant locking. However, be cautious with thin ropes and softer falls—always keep one hand on the rope below the device to ensure safety.

Who Is the Neox For?

The Neox is designed primarily for experienced climbers seeking an auto-blocking belay device with improved functionality for feeding slack compared to the older Grigri models. This system requires a learning curve to master proper handling and avoid inappropriate gestures. As with the Grigri, it's crucial to read the manual and watch the brand's instructional videos to understand and safely use the device.

For beginner climbers prioritising maximum safety, we recommend exploring assisted braking tube-style belay devices, available in our belay device section, such as the Smart from Mammut, the ATC Pilot from Black Diamond, or the Jul and Giga Jul from Edelrid.

What Is the Price of the Neox?

The Neox belay device is priced around £110, making it slightly more expensive than the standard Grigri and Grigri + models.

Detailed Description of the Neox:

Auto-locking belay device with cam-assisted braking:

• Designed for lead and top-rope climbing
• Optimised for lead climbing, thanks to the integrated pulley that allows smooth rope feeding for easier and faster slack management
• Comfortable belaying with cam-assisted locking: during a fall or rest, the rope tightens, the pulley locks, and the cam pivots to pinch and secure the rope

Ease of Use:

• Simple rope installation with engraved markings on the device
• Familiar handling similar to other Petzl belay devices, requiring consistent rope guidance through the device and maintaining a hand on the braking side
• Cam-assisted locking is forgiving of hand positioning on the braking side, regardless of the angle between the climber’s rope and the braking rope
• Compatible with all single dynamic ropes from 8.5 to 11 mm, optimised for diameters between 8.9 and 10.5 mm

Descent Control:

• Comfortable grip and easy rope release with an ergonomic handle
• Handle mechanism tripled for better control on thinner ropes and reduced effort on thicker ropes
• Eco-friendly design: all plastic elements, including the handle, are made from recycled polyamide

Technical Specifications of the Petzl Neox:

Weight: 235 g
Rope compatibility: single ropes from 8.5 to 11 mm
Materials: aluminium side plates, stainless steel braking pad, cam and pulley, recycled polyamide handle
Certifications: CE EN 15151-1, UKCA, UIAA

The Neox in Photos to Understand How it Works

Petzl Neox Belay Device Video Demonstration